The secret guide to hidden Italy 2010
The secret guide to hidden Italy 2010
There’s no denying that the British winter months can feel like an eternity. We just can’t seem to engage our brain to the idea that summer really is just around the corner, so what better time to start planning our 2010 holidays. Just thinking about carefree days and nights fills us with energy, vitality and confidence, the power of positive thought is just so invigorating.
Italophile’s will be more than happy to know that I have devoted this month feature on “la bella Italia”!
Italy: intriguing land of passion, synonymous with style, history and art. It’s no wonder that Italy has always been adored by northern Europeans, writers such as George Gissing and Norman Douglas were fascinated whilst in Italy, particularly the south which they travelled to more than a century ago. This area is often regarded as the land of the midday sun.
Long considered an expensive destination for UK visitors, the economic downturn hasn’t helped either and arguably you might not think it's worth the expense.
But hey, Italy can be very affordable without compromising on style or comfort, you just need to know where to look and spend some time surfing for good flight deals which there are many of at the moment.
There’s something for everyone here, beaches, mountains, art, fashion and let’s not forget Italian gastronomy which is reputed to be the best in the world.
Sporty types will not be disappointed with many water ski schools, golf courses and numerous sailing clubs.
I have visited Italy for many years and have some of the fondest and craziest memories, all worthy of a Fellini movie! For this reason I would like to share with you a small selection of this tantalizing and spectacular country.
Tuscany used to be a firm favorite for many years with a huge expat community. The rambling countryside has picturesque houses and a landscape to die for. Foodie’s will adore the delicious regional ingredients that are used in Tuscan cookery.
I’m very fond of South Tuscany, an area called Ansedonia in the Monte Argentario region; it’s close to the quaint town of Orbitello, close to where the late Princess Margaret often enjoyed a quiet retreat. Santo Stefano, 10 km away has the best seafood I have ever experienced and is back dropped by the dreamy swaying Mediterranean.
Ansedonia is frequented mostly by Italians and unlike the Costa Smerelda is very low key even in august, home to many politician’s and high profile media types who like to play it down, so don’t expect too many paparazzi!
La Feniglia beach is 8 km long which connects from Monte Argentario to the mainland, also close to Porto Ercole which has some very high fashion boutiques. You can buy your dream bag there!
La Feniglia has great restaurants and beach clubs with great music. Its pine clad with a lovely causeway running in the centre of the fine sand. Just a few minutes away you will find another fabulous beach called Prato All’ Inglese which translates as an English lawn, it really is a well manicured lawn, quite surreal, with loungers and waiter service, after getting nicely relaxed have a saunter down to this most divine graggy cove in front of you and wallow in the warm water of this almost lagoon heaven. A tranquil little gem, very easy to spend an afternoon here in this Bouganvilla drenched sunspot.
Moving south to the heel of Italy we arrive in Puglia, becoming increasingly popular over the last few years it hasn’t sold out to the big hotel groups. Here you will find many masserias and converted oil mills which have been converted to lovely guest homes. “Agroturismo” is also popular here, mostly run by extended families, they offer organic home-made pasta, Puglian specialty and sumptuous cakes and pastries.
Much of the nation’s olive oil and wine is produced here due to the arid climate and agreeable soil.
Stay at Il Frantoio in the village of Fasano, run by Armando and his lovely wife Rosalba, they have converted a 1700 century oil mill into 8 stylish apartments. Each evening the guest’s gather around a long trellis table and devour 12 incredible courses all washed down with organic heady home produced wine.
Often described as the “Florence of the South”, the town of Ostuni shouldn’t be missed, Arabic in appearance with white washed houses all cling to the cliff side with the cool azure sea besides it.
Trulli houses are another distinct feature of Puglia, only found in this area, they have been built over the last 5000 years, originally used by farmers as barns, they are now very sought after to buy or rent. They have conical roofs, are round in shape with very thigh wall’s which provide the much needed coolness in the summer torrid months where the temperature can reach 40 degrees. “Trullis” are found in abundance around the pretty little town of Alberobello.
The town of Gallipoli in the deep south of Puglia borders the Adriatic sea and the surrounding area is called the Salento peninsula.
Lecce, close to Gallipoli is a handsome baroque town with some of the best architecture in the whole of Italy. A visit to the city of Bari is a must, it has the longest seafront in Italy, the Santa Lucia theatre is also worthy of a visit if it’s only to see this incredible piece of craftsmanship.
The main airport city of Brindisi has recently been redeveloped creating new docks and a main freight port for travelers bound for Greece and Turkey.
The region of Calabria in the toe of Italy looks as if it’s about to boot Sicily into the sea! But actually they are quite similar in terms of their dialects and traditions. Very mountainous and rugged this area is still relatively unknown to British travelers partly due to its weak infrastructure and political issues, however that is now changing with new government incentives to attract visitors to this un-spoilt and mysterious part of Italy.
Traditionally known as the "Mezzogiorno”, Calabria is steeped in tradition and venturing inland you will find hamlets and villages that seem untouched by the present century, indeed you might feel that you are stepping back 50 or so years ago and it is for this reason that Calabria retains so much charm and interest unlike its northern stressed cousins.
Calabria’s history dates back to the Magna Graecia and the bronzes of Riaci still stand proud in Reggio Calabria. Carlo Levi’s seminal memoir depicts old Calabria at its best with the epic film “Christ stopped at Eboli”.
With 800 Kilometers of coastline, this area has superb beaches, a mixture of sandy and stony and they are kept spotlessly clean and tidy.
Cosenza is Calabria’s main town, which is perfect to explore the Sila Moutains and forests; here you can be walking in the foothills or skiing in January and then head off down to the coast for a gelato.
Southern inspired food is based on eggplant, swordfish, ricotta and other cheeses such as provolone and pecorino, figs and almonds feature too. Hot chili peppers are a often used in sauces and a local specialty called “Nduja” which is a very hot chili salami which can be spread on to Bruschetta, beware its very potent!!
Stay in Tropea or nearby capo Vaticanom both stylish resorts with some remarkable hotels and houses to rent. The coastal town of Parghelia is quieter and less busy than Tropea and Pizzo Calabro is a bustling port town and a slice of real Calabrian life.
Driving through the instep of the boot through forest and hairpin bends (only the brave) you will find yourself in the city of Catanzaro, a working city, best to drive on to the lovely beaches of Soverato, Copanello and Isola Capo Rizzuto, great for the no tan lines crowd, yes, it’s a nudist beach.
How to get there
Ansedonia- fly to Rome and from there it’s around one and a half hours by car or you can fly to Rome’s other airport Fiumicino which takes 30 minutes less.
The beauty of this region is to stay in a fabulous country house and for this I recommend holiday-rentals.com where you deal with the owner directly.
Eat at the glorious Carmen Bay restaurant overlooking the sea, candle lit and exquisite spaghetti Vongole, do try their fresh lobster and crab linguine.
Puglia - fly to either Bari or Brindisi with easyjet.com or ryanair.com or fly with alitalia.com and connect in Rome or Milan perfect for 2 centre breaks.
Stay at Il Frantoio in Village of Fasano Restaurant features in Vogue Tatler and Harpers.
Also check Masseria di santo Domenico check longtravel.com if you would like to stay in a Trulli, ask to speak to Annie.
Calabria - fly to local airport, Lamezia Terme via Rome or Milan with alitalia.com
Or fly to Naples directly with britishairways.com and drive four hours south.
Next month I will feature the up and coming hot spots for this summer.
Michael Cimino
